Located just under 10 miles south of downtown Tucson, Arizona, on the Tohono O’odham reservation, sits The White Dove of the Desert, rising high above dusty rose-colored gravel. San Xavier Del Bac Mission has stood as an icon for more than two centuries, providing not only a space for worship but also introducing visitors to meticulously preserved Baroque-style architecture.
The first time I saw this site was in third grade, while my grandparents were visiting my family in Tucson from Canada. I was astonished by the grandeur of such a building in the middle of the desert then, and that feeling was still present 25 years later on my recent visit.
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The Catholic church was completed in 1797 after 14 years of construction. It features two tall, white-finished brick towers on either side of a light brown middle section displaying countless intricate carvings of saints. The exterior of the church is surrounded by a brick wall with carved archways and is speckled with pops of green from saguaro, cholla, barrel and prickly pear cacti.
The historic adobe building has survived an earthquake, a lightning strike and leaking walls, with extensive dedication to preserving and maintaining its structure over time. Today, it is recognized as a National Historic Landmark and is on the National Register of Historic Places, and it is free and open to the public daily.
San Xavier Del Bac is still an operational church, offering spiritual connection and daily mass. Visiting hours outside of mass are from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. every day. Docent-led tours of the Mission exterior are available Monday through Saturday by donation so visitors can learn more about the history and architecture of the building, along with the preservation work being done to maintain the structure by its parish, The Patronato San Xavier. Visitors can also choose a self-guided option to wander the grounds, admire the exterior, visit the museum and gift shop, head inside the church through the ornate archway and heavy wooden doors and see the smaller mortuary chapel next to the church housing a shrine with countless lit candles.
Inside the church, immerse in a pristine example of dramatic Spanish Baroque design. The vaulted ceilings are seemingly endless, with ornate windows to let the desert light in. The hues of gold, green and burnt red throughout are awe-inspiring as the walls are painted floor to ceiling with murals. Scalloped, dark wood bench pews face the golden altar, with a myriad of statues and carvings.
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While visiting San Xavier, don’t miss exploring the surrounding grounds as well. To the east of the church, wander up Grotto Hill. After the ascent, there is a circular path around the hill offering panoramic views of the desert, mountains and San Xavier Co-op Farm growing alfalfa below. This is also home to a shrine set in a rocky cave on the hill. To the east of the parking lot, you’ll find multiple shade structures set up for vendors. Grab a fry-bread taco and a cold drink for lunch or snack on a sweet version with butter and honey. Adjacent to the parking lot, San Xavier Plaza hosts multiple shops featuring local art, jewelry and handwoven baskets.
Learn more at sanxaviermission.org. Plan your visit to Tucson at visittucson.org.