Cog.jpeg

Visit Colorado Springs

Rails & Trails: A Journey Across Colorado’s Backcountry by Train and Foot

Which train ride would you take in Colorado if you could? To the real rail enthusiasts, the answer is probably, “all of them.” So, why not try?

OK, we can’t include all of them. That would take a full summer to complete, and most of us work, sadly. But we have the next best thing: a loop itinerary taking you in a circle through the backroads of Colorado. Welcome to Rails & Trails: a long-weekend-road-and-rail trip for the railroad lovers who also look out the window and think, “Wow, I wish I could step out and be there.” So, grab your hiking poles and pack light because we’re actually doing it; we’re riding the rails and walking the ridgelines of The Centennial State.

Climbing the Clouds in Manitou Springs

The journey begins in Manitou Springs at the highest cog railway in the United States. Pikes Peak Cog Railway, originally built in 1891 to the summit, remains a bucket-list experience for one great reason: It chugs skyward. While most trains make an incline of no more than four percent, this is a cog railroad designed specifically to take you up to 14,500 ft elevation at a 22-percent incline. As you ascend, you’ll feel the difference, but it’s not just the elevation gain that’ll take your breath away—the sweeping views of the pines, the alpine lakes and distant peaks are simply otherworldly. You can walk around once you reach the top but expect dramatic temperature shifts. A 66-degree day at the base, for example, can drop to minus 2 degrees at the top. If Mt. Everest is on your bucket list, this giant summit is half its height, giving you some good exposure as to what the oxygen levels—and incredible views—might be like there.

Once back in town, lace up for a moderate hike to explore those distant shimmering peaks you saw in the distance while on the train. Crags Trail is a quieter hike that takes you through ancient granite formations, shady spruce forests and panoramic overlooks, letting you experience the majesty of the Front Range on foot.

While in Colorado Springs, the restaurant you can’t miss is Juniper Valley Ranch, a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it gem just south of the city. This 1950s pink adobe farmhouse serves up skillet-fried chicken, stewed okra and applesauce in the kind of setting that makes you want to write postcards. Dinner is served family-style and finished with warm peach cobbler.

For your overnight stay, The Broadmoor is a luxury icon, a historic resort built in 1918. As soon as you step foot into the grandiose lobby, you’ll feel like royalty, which adds up since this resort has hosted U.S. presidents, movie stars and mountaineers alike. Tonight, you’re in fine company.

When you go:

Gorge-ous Views and Skyline Rides

This journey takes you about an hour southwest to Cañon City, home of the jaw-dropping Royal Gorge Route Railroad. Instead of climbing summits, you’ll be curving next to the cliffs. This vintage train (built in 1929) winds along the Arkansas River in a 1,000-foot-deep canyon and crosses tall, narrow bridges with open-air cars—if you dare. Not a fan of heights? Don’t worry, you’ll have a seat inside, and you can head to the charming Caboose Café where you can enjoy the views safely from the window.  

For the trails portion of this day, we’re headed to the surrounding valley for thrill rides and fossils. Skyline Drive offers the same razor-thin ridge of pavement and sheer drop-offs, with no guardrails. You can drive or bike this (there’s a rental shop at the start) if you’re comfortable with such narrow roads and car traffic.

Although it’s hard not to stare at the captivating canyons, remember to look to the other side about two thirds of the way up the for the dinosaur fossils. They’re said to be footprints from an ankylosaurus group making their way west toward what was once marshlands about 68 million years ago.

Because Cañon City is a place of history and winding valleys, we’ll keep vibes going with a flight at The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey. In 1886, two monks moved from Pennsylvania to establish St. Benedictine Monastery—and a winery. It became a vineyard open to the public in 2002 and now offers locally grown Colorado wines with self-guided tastings open daily.

This is an unplug-and-listen-to-the-crickets kind of night, as you head over to Royal Gorge Cabins where you can stay in a cabin or add comfort and luxury to your overnight stay with “glamping” tents available. Disconnect here as you enjoy the crackling campfire and then head to a soft queen-sized bed at night.

When you go:

Over the Pass and Into the San Juans

The next train experience is nearly five hours away, but the drive is far from boring. Head down to Durango but “stop to smell the roses” as you take in the views at Monarch Pass. At over 11,300 feet, Monarch Pass offers a top-of-the-world feeling. Stop at the summit for panoramic views of the Continental Divide. There’s a historic sign that’s fun for quick photos and lets you get a chance to breath in that crisp alpine air.

Once you arrive, your most iconic train ride awaits. The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad is a living time capsule: steam-powered, coal-fired and as thrilling today as it was when it first opened in 1882.

It’s a 3.5-hour ride that climbs into the San Juan Mountains, yet again hugging sheer cliffs (sorry to those with acrophobia). But this time you’ll pass waterfalls, elk meadows and pine forests along the Animas River. By the time you reach Silverton, you’ll feel like you’ve time traveled.

Silverton is an old mining town where you can walk along wooden sidewalks exploring candy-colored storefronts and museums. You could easily spend a day exploring this quaint town.

If you book a round-trip train ticket, the ride back to Durango is in the afternoon, which means after a well-rested night, you can rise early for one of the most picturesque trails yet. Ice Lakes Basin Trailhead, one of the state’s most scenic alpine hikes. It’s a challenging, steep climb that takes you to the rewarding turquoise water at the top. Along the way, you’ll see wildflower-strewn slopes and dramatic cirques and there is a beautiful, smaller lake about halfway up in case you decide the full hike isn’t in your plans for that day.

 The return ride is just as magical in reverse. With the afternoon sun hitting the basin, it gives a new perspective. Plus, there’s the bonus of riding during the Golden Hour making for some incredible photos—and selfies.

Refuel with a hearty dinner at Handlebars Food & Saloon, a classic Western spot where the buffalo burgers are big and so is the taxidermy. You might find yourself making eye contact with a stuffed elk as you chow down, but that’s the fun of it. Make sure you try the secret Handlebar’s BBQ sauce—it’s often proclaimed the best in the state.

“Old West, but fashionable,” is probably the motto of The Wyman Hotel, where you’ll stay before returning to Durango in the morning. It’s a restored 1902 building that brings a bit of midcentury modern to the vintage western home. This urban boutique hotel also has a great bar-and-coffee shop, always a great bonus.

When you go:

Back to Reality

By the end of this adventure, your boots will be dirty, your camera full and, hopefully, your soul just a little bit lighter. Colorado’s railways and ridgelines remind us that the journey is the destination. And sometimes, the best trails start right outside the train window.

Know Before You Go

  • Best Time to Travel:  May through early October for train availability.
  • Train Booking: Reserve tickets early for both the Pikes Peak Cog Railway and Durango & Silverton. Royal Gorge also fills fast.
  • Altitude Awareness: Many of the train rides and hikes go above 10,000 ft. Hydrate and take your time.