Chile Season Turns Up the Heat in Albuquerque

Like most states, New Mexico has several officially designated state symbols: The yucca plant is the state flower, for instance, while the greater roadrunner is the state bird. But unlike any other state in the nation, New Mexico has an official aroma: the smell of locally grown green chiles roasting in the fall.

Sara Mancini, who co-owns the Salsa Saint shop in Old Town Albuquerque with her husband J.J., says the aroma of green chiles tumbling in a cylindrical roaster means more than a simple meal or dish. “There’s hope and peace mixed in that smell,” says Sara, whose shop stocks 170 types of salsas and hot sauces grown with New Mexico chiles. “It’s a really magical time—and because it starts that fall season, there’s a kind of nostalgia mixed in.”

No matter the season, it’s hard to overstate the importance of chiles to New Mexican culture. New Mexico State University's Chile Pepper Institute bills itself as the world's only international nonprofit to research and study chile peppers. The state’s official question is “red or green?”—most commonly asked by restaurant servers who want to know the type of chile you’d like in your dish. Even McDonald’s outposts across the state top cheeseburgers with the mildly spicy, slightly smoky ingredient.

It’s a feast for the senses that’s rooted in centuries of agricultural history. Today, New Mexico is undeniably the chile capital of the United States—and Albuquerque is arguably the chile capital of New Mexico. Here’s how to enjoy the flavorful feast around town all year long.

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Dirt Toad Travels

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Visit Albuquerque

New Mexico Chiles, Explained

Different varieties grow throughout New Mexico, but the chiles most closely associated with the state are Hatch chiles, which come from the state’s Hatch Valley. These famous exports are beloved for earthy, somewhat smoky flavors that balance beautifully with a mild spiciness. When green chiles are roasted in autumn, chances are good they’re Hatch chiles you’re smelling. (In fact, the Hatch Chile Festival celebrates the delicacy in its namesake village every Labor Day Weekend with arts and crafts, live entertainment, and plenty of food.)

Broadly speaking, chiles are green before ripening—at which point they turn a bright red. Green chiles are generally less spicy, while red chiles tend to pack more of a punch. If you’re dining out and can’t decide between red or green chiles for your enchilada, it’s always okay to ask for “Christmas”—both types.

Where to Enjoy Chiles in Albuquerque

New Mexico-grown chiles are layered into burritos, slathered on enchiladas and cheeseburgers, used in flavor-packed chile relleno, and infused into salsas and hot sauces.

You can't throw a chile ristra without hitting a restaurant using the homegrown ingredient, but a few spots stand out among locals. J.J. Mancini, co-owner of Salsa Saint, is quick to heap praise on the James Beard Award-winning Mary & Tito's Cafe, which has been dishing New Mexican cuisine since 1963. (“Their red chile is amazing,” he says. “It’s absolutely out of this world.”) He's also a fan of Duran Central Pharmacy, a gift shop and (yes) pharmacy that also hosts a lunch-counter style diner that pairs its balanced red chile with fresh, handmade tortillas.

For a flavorful snack back home, the nine-acre Big Jim Farms offers the chance to pick and roast chiles—and string your own chile ristras—every autumn. If you’d rather not work for your chile, stop by Salsa Saint while perusing the shops and restaurants of Albuquerque’s Old Town neighborhood. The Mancinis opened the cozy shop in 2021 and have since amassed a collection of salsas and hot sauces from all corners of the state. "We don't necessarily have our own family recipe of salsa, red chile sauce, or green chile sauce," J.J. Mancini says. "So we decided that we're going to feature all of the people who do."

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